Why would you not just weld it? If the tank is too thin for you then maybe silicon bronze, it with TIG. Like cj737 said, that could cause a Galvanic corrosion. Here is a link to what that is.
https://www.appmfg.com/blog/4-facts-on- ... -corrosion

Bit late, but here is what I ended up doing.

Yup, stainless stick is very picky on rod angle. Off a couple degrees and boom, special characters start flying out your mouth. Heh

12v power supply and dump as much salt in a cup of water it can absorb. Make an applicator, (wooden spoon with a sponge on it), swipe the sponge on the area that needs to have the coloring taken off. Start low on volts and work your way up until it works. Caution too much for too long and it will et...

Looking at this thread brought up a question I have. Been running Lincoln gear for a long time and I haven’t had a need or a desire to stray away from equipment that has served me well. That being said, I am purchasing an MT200 and wanted to add a water cooler. What brands do you all like and why? ...

Miller 220 multi process is straight up the bomb. With the addition of a spoolgun you can lay any bead on any material given it's within the welder range. It was my first machine. I have had to upgrade to a larger TIG and a larger MIG will be my next large purchase, but I still use the 220 for most ...

Pants wrote: ↑Mon Mar 21, 2022 8:15 pm Very belated thanks to all. (This isn't the only forum I've had trouble with getting set up to notify me of new replies...says it is, then...doesn't...)

You cheating on us? lol JK

Barney wrote: ↑Mon Mar 21, 2022 6:26 pm Drizzit…Looks like you’ve got quite a project.

It was an older project when I worked for an E-One dealership, 2nd time on the same truck. They just couldn't keep it on the road, I guess. lol

Personally, I would TIG it. Course for me TIG would be faster since I am setup for TIG, an aluminum TIG weld will last longer, poetically look better and less heat input if welded right. I pretty much only use MIG if I am repairing an item. This is MIG Aluminum MIG core repair.JPG Course I MIGed thi...

My thoughts were of a rear-end collision and some extra security. Guess they are pretty contained in the bottle rack though, as long as a broken valve in a worst-case scenario just leaks and doesn't catch a spark, you're golden. Looks good! If no lid, I made some construction trailers about 20 years...

Not that it does you any good at this point but a "good to know" thing is that casters with flat wheels (though last longer) are harder to maneuver than wheels that have a radius (more surface area touching the floor equals more friction). Also, a good note is that if the arm that connects...

Also tried welding my name. Tried to get good penetration, so it was harder. https://i.postimg.cc/DzNyWcdV/20220127-204358.jpg For what you're doing penetration isn't needed and the wrong thing to go for. If you get the weld too hot you push through to the inside, that will contaminate your weld on...

I ma throw in my 2 cents too. not too long ago (20yrs) I certified with flux core MIG for structural. I believe it was 3/8" plate which allowed me to be certified for unlimited thickness. What I didn't know then is what Oscar and Jack have said, spray arc makes all the difference. https://www.y...

Suggestion, make a hinged half lid low enough to cover the valves and use cam over latches on the side(s) to secure it. You even get fancy and throw on a gas strut on either side.

What is better, 75 arg. 25 co2 or 100% co2 for Flux Stainless? I have to get another bottle tomorrow might as well get what works best.

I believe the main issue was stick out. Since the outside pipe I was given can be pretty much oval ( I can't tack and smack it perfectly round) and I don't adjust the stick out fast enough during welding I will get a short wormhole effect. Course I ran out of gas today and my Miller gas gauge that c...

Okay, I got it. whoop, thanks all!

Would you mind posting the wire size, what length stickout you are using, and what gas mix? Is the wire 304, 308, 309? .035, 1/2", 75 argon 25 co2, 308LT1. Sorry just saw this. I pulled it back to 1 1/4"on the last one I did before I hit the hay and it looked okay. I'll repost in a few ho...

Drizz, when you welded the lower part of the piece, was your gun pointing upwards or was the piece turned upside down? I don't see the critter tracks in the lower weld. What was different there? Was there some type of cleaning agent prior to the weld on the top of the piece and did you allow it all...

There isn;t any porosity, I am running 15 on gas flow, So this is not a gas-less flux core wire but rather a gas-shielded SS Flux core wire? If so, what is the required gas as specified by the manufacturer It is a gased wire, I turned my gas up to 30 which gave me a perfect bead. I was like, okay m...

The joy of flux core! 🤣 This is one that does your head in till you nut it out. Usually porosity is cause by not enough gas cover, however wormys are usually from too much. We have guys that run mig type gas flow for flux and keep getting this. I have found 14 lpm in workshop and 20 lpm for onsite/...

it's like the cup was drug without the cup touching? Might be there was not enough stickout. What is the manufacturer's recommended stickout? Other possibilities: Voltage too high, wire not stored correctly. Jack I have it pretty close, I can pull back some. It's china wire, Amazon special, 81 buck...

I use the Loctite brand, it rocks. not a well-known fact (because who but me would waist it) helps on drill bits loading up too on soft materials. lol

Yes, it's a janky setup, my 300 dollar 30% of the parts have broke and replaced with all the wrong parts. Comments welcome, heh. Seriously though, what causes the worm holes I am getting, it's like the cup was drug without the cup touching? Travel speed, wire feed speed? Too expensive to experiment ...