I think I figured it out. I'm running slick V groove rollers. It looks like the wire has been slipping. I'm going to order a set of knurled dual shield rollers.

I'm using a Miller XMT 350 with a 70 series wire feeder. I'm running .045 ESAB Shield-Bright 316L dual shield wire at their recommended settings of 24v and 300-350 ipm. It welds great for a little while then it starts burning back really bad, it sputters the burnback too so I'll be welding and it'll...

So the little bits of filler in the hole didn't work very well. For one there were 12 holes and cutting the filler was very hard and tedious. I ended up drilling the 1/2-13 threads out with a 1/2 drill and using a 60 degree countersink bit to cut as big a chamfer as I could and then with a smaller n...

Here's a trick that has worked for me in the past...but it may not exactly be up to code, so use your own judgement on it. Clean the holes out as best you can with a small enough tube brush and degreaser followed by acetone or contact cleaner. Cut up some of the appropriate filler rod into little 1...

I am being asked to fill in a number of holes in a stainless casting. the holes are drilled 5/8" deep and threaded 1/2 coarse. they want them welded in so they can re do the holes. I have never had luck filling holes like this. especially in stainless because i only have that filler metal in Ti...

Me too, maybe I need open up the case and blow the dust out? I am also running 3-phase I think so the duty cycle should be even higher. If it continues I will have to call Miller because the machine isn't more than 2 years old.

I put one of those clamp on Amp meters on the cable and at 24v its running 220a and at 23v I get 200a. Then I finally remembered the arc control. When I turn that from 100% to 60% at 23v I now get 180a.

Nevermind, I was looking at the wrong manual. This machine has a pretty low duty cycle. At my power levels it says I can only weld for 6 minutes and let it cool down. I have been going for about 20 so it overheated. Help-3 means the machine overheated and it cut power to let the fan get it back to a...

Hey I have a Miller XMT 350 and a Series 70 feeder unit with the factory Bernard gun which according to Miller a 400A gun is included. I am running .045 dual shield steel wire and 23-24.5 volts at 250-350 wire. When welding for a while continuously I have recently started having a problem where I am...

Now if only I could figure out how to weld porosity in Bronze castings haha Well.... http://www.stratawelding.com/shop/Specialised+Products/Special+Bronze+Repairs/STRATA+350+Bronze+Electrode.html http://www.gedikwelding.com/product/bronze-electrode https://www.alcaminc.com/bronze-brass.html http://...

By the way don't just put a tack over a pin hole. Put a 1" long bead over it. If there are multiple pin holes close by, pad the area. Thanks that is what I do, a bead with the hole in the middle where possible. I tried your advice today, dull red with a torch and used 316L stick electrode inst...

You can use 316 for 316 castings and 308 for the other. 312 is an excellent rod for repairs and dissimilar metals. Very tolerant of difficult situations and super easy to run, flows like butter. Fully compatible for your materials. Expensive but worth it to have on hand. They can be bought in small...

Coldman wrote:Heat the area with oxy torch till dull red and let cool. Won't hurt it and it will drive the moisture sway. Then stick weld over it with 312 rods.

Why 312? I don't have those.

By the way the castings are either 316L or CA6NM which I normally use 308L for.

Is 312 compatible with those?

Not weld porosity, but porosity in cheap stainless castings. The parts in question are for pumps and cannot leak, we pressure test them and sometimes find porosity, usually pinholes where water can seep through. My problem as the welder is how to weld over it. The second the metal turns molten the t...

weldin mike 27 wrote:It's more than likely a new item. Imagine paying a premium for a new part and then finding a quick fix slapped on it to cover a mistake. I would not be happy.

The alternative is weeks sometimes months to get a new casting made, and a very unhappy and impatient customer.

Only way I think you could do it is with stick and a steady arm. That doesn't rely on shielding gas the same way TIG does. and I've done it before in holes, just kind of stick it in there and drag it around, do that a couple of times till the hole is full of metal. It ain't perfect, but with a skin...

Only way I think you could do it is with stick and a steady arm. That doesn't rely on shielding gas the same way TIG does. and I've done it before in holes, just kind of stick it in there and drag it around, do that a couple of times till the hole is full of metal. It ain't perfect, but with a skin...

Im using a United Alloys supercast rod designed for cast iron, should I be using a Ni-55 or Ni-99 instead? I have 99X maintenance rod.

Poland308 wrote:Chamfer the hole full depth. IE angled bevel all the way down. Fill it in back out. Tig would be best to keep down the heat.

To close to the outer wall.

Thanks for all your suggestions, I was presenting options and the powers that be decided to scrap it and order a new casting. I thought we could save it but oh well.

VA-Sawyer wrote:That close to the edge, why not go in from the side? Have them mill the sides away, then weld from the sides.

That is a possibility, and an interesting idea. Let me see what they say to Helicoils, but if they are out of location that wouldn't help. So I might try that.

Just curious, what is screwed up? Location? All they asked was if I could weld them in, looking at the nonconformance sheet some or all are out of location and or stripped threads. Physically looking at them it looks like someone did a real sloppy job with a hand drill which is weird because I am p...

Yikes. That will be tough to repair. Best bet would be to add a bit of filler, then let cool and peen it. Small wire (like 0.030) with a small tungsten to get down in there. By the way, I reread your post. Are you able to try to TIG weld it? Good luck. I am fearless and repairing that one would sca...

When I have confronted this type of repair, I over-drill and tap the original hole, make a threaded plug, screw that in, weld the top. Then re-drill and tap properly. Has worked for me every time. That's more or less what I've been doing up until now but these holes are too close to the edge for th...