Thanks CJ, all ordered and coming my way.

I can't seem to find a place where I can get individual cups. I'd like to buy a few #8 stubbys without all the extras. Thanks, Ron

CJ, I'm trying to find a way to tack when I have to hold one piece without being able to feed wire.

I was thinking that if you had your heat set, that a one second pulse might be the ticket. I tried it to frustration and turned it off. I think that I might have found a way that works for me most of the time.A tight fit and light up just off from the joint and as soon as it puddles bring it into th...

Thanks, CJ do you ever tack with pulse?

Thanks, I try to make my fits tight, my biggest challenge is applying the tack. If I go with 60 amps I'll blow through before I can move. I try to stay away from the joint and work into it with the puddle, throttling my heat as I go, but more times than not I blow through. If I stay on the joint I b...

I'm making an exhaust for my old Panhead and I really need some help with laying down a tack without using wire. The tube is .062 and I've tried low amps (30) and high amps (75) pulse and spot and my confidence is in the shitter. My machine is an HTP 221, using the peddle and 1/16" tungsten. Id...

I try to use 2 o-rings when I use the glass cups but I will have to give them a better look, air leaks never entered my mind. Makes sense. Thanks

I normally run glass cups, lately I have been making exhaust pipes for my bike. I've been using a #9 torch and a 1/16" tungsten and for this I am using a ceramic cup because I didn't have any adapters for my glass cups. I changed over to my glass cups and my weld turned to crap like I was runni...

Thanks guys, it's on the to do list.

Thanks, they had what I need.

Where do you get your supplies. I went to the city to the only place that sells parts but they had nothing that I went in looking for, which were stubby glass lenses.
Ebay sells kits but I would like to be able to buy a box of #8 cups with out all the other stuff.

I've had my HTP 221 for a few years now and was curious about cleaning under the hood. This never seems to come up in discussion forums
and doing a search brings up nothing.

I took a chance and ordered some parts and they didn't fit. I ended up buying a 72-3 head cheaper than what I was paying for parts that don't fit. The head I got is in great shape. I did alright.

I have what I believe is a Harris torch. It has no markings at all for ID. My problem is the air valve allows air to flow constantly. I took the valve out and it appears to me that there are pieces missing. It's a nice torch and it's much lighter than the Airco torches I've used and I'd like to make...

I have a bunch of old used tungsten bits. Is there a way to determine which grade a piece is, say thoriated from lanthanated?

Thanks for fixin it BugHunter. Don't know how it got flipped.

I coulda sworn that I built it the other way around

Thank you

Since I have the wire to the tig button running along with my torch cord attached with wire ties. I want to cover it, what is the braided stuff called?

Thanks CJ, pipe welders at the mill that I used to work at did alot of purging on SS pipe. They also used a backing tape but I don't remember if they were using both at the same time. I thought it was cool to see the weld from the inside. Looked like they were welding the inside.

I really didn't even notice if they were welding stainless. My exhaust is mild steel and I just assumed he was welding mild steel also. I know better. Is there a benefit to purging mild steel?

I'm building an exhaust for my project and have been working on making pie cuts and general fitting issues. I watched a you tube video where they were purging the pipe. The pipe had numerous pie cuts and just tacked in place sections. What is the advantage of the purge in this scenario?

900 bucks though!! Maybe someone will make a generic one