I free-hand anything under 6". Advance/keyhole/fill. I don't go lay-wire until the second pass, then it's still free-hand on small pipe. On a 2" sch. 10, I'd guess I'm at 75-80 amps, on the remote for adjustment as I go. I do prefer 3/32 filler for my root pass. Steve S Ok, yea i definite...

I do a fair bit of stainless pipe and tube, and I find my results improve if I intentionally fit the joint "wrong"... It seems the overall shrinkage is greater at the end of the weld, because of the effect of heat moving ahead of you, for want of a better explanation. I'll fit a 5G joint,...

If I tack at 6 o'clock I start at 7 and weld through the tack.. Like Josh said this will help a lot, I also use less gap 3/32" in most cases, it shrinks up a little and I have no issues getting a nice flush root. You can butt weld sch 10 but the settings have to be spot on..... Do you feather ...

Poland308 wrote:Try moving your tack on the bottom to a 7 o'clock position and then start welding at 6.

Ok. No offense, I definitely appreciate any advice, but, how will moving the bottom tack over half an inch solve the whole pipe distortion/bowing problem, and help me slick a bead in there better?

Around 50 amps on a miller dialarc. Tig torch - Weldcraft w-17 flexhead with a number 10 cup, 1/8" tungsten. Argon purge at about 8-10 cfh. I start by putting a somewhat steep bevel on the coupons, (6g position) then i tack, square, repeat. Then i start running my bead at the bottom (6 o'clock ...

I've been welding for a few years, mainly stick, but I've been tig welding for only few months now. I've got it down pretty well though, can pass X-rays on carbon pipe, and sch. 40 stainless pipe, but I'm having some major problems with sch. 10 stainless pipe , mainly with getting the root in there ...