Hi,

Just for reference, this is a 1/8" lap joint using the 3/32" 308L filler.

Jeff

Hi Everyone, I was away from the welding exercises for several months. Been back at it now for the last 6 or 8 weeks. The last few days (maybe a week) I've been working with stainless. I have been working mostly with 1/8" coupons for the stainless, and for most of what I have been doing with mi...

Hi Everyone,

I have seen Kodokan post in while. I miss watching his progress.

Jeff

Hi Arno, Thanks for your advice. If you are over 40 or already wearing prescription glasses then I'd recommend getting some cheater lenses that you can click into your helmet. They tend to come in a range of +0.5 to around +3.0 magnification and are available for most helmets. These provide addition...

Hi CJ, Thanks, Your input does help. Thank you. When you weld a T joint like that, it’s not uncommon to not see filler/weld pushing through to the backside. For that reason, most T joints get welded on both sides, front and back. This also insures a much stronger weld. If you want to single pass it,...

Hi Everyone, A good run of real paying work meant no time with Tig. I sat down again yesterday and for a while this morning. CJ wrote this a while ago: Your arc length is too long. That is evidenced by the heat affected zone up the plate. Too long of an arc causes a lot of problems, not the least of...

Hi Everyone,

First aluminum attempts.

I know that several of the beads were too hot. Still working on dialing things in.

Jeff

Hi Kodokan,

Looks like you're still having fun! And, trying new things.

Being pretty much a beginner, too... I'm curious what you find the most rewarding (or "fun") metal to work with as you improve your skills.

Still doing most of your welding at school?

Great progress!

Jeff

Hi CJ, Thanks. The arc length is the most challenging part of the process. The thought in my head as I'm running the bead is that I'm almost too close in terms of arc length. That being said, I get the fact that the heat affected zone is telling the story. I'll keep working at it. Thanks for the adv...

Hey Everyone, I haven't made enough time to really show much improvement. Still get in a little torch time, although there was quite a lag. I've attached a couple of pics of a inside corner joint I attempted yesterday. 1/8" mild steel plate. 145 A at full pedal for the middle bead. Still not en...

Hi Tweake, it depends on what material. stainless (at least the typical 3 series) is very often just autogenous welding. with aluminium a couple grades do, the rest don't. without filler the welds are weak and crack easily. edit: you also have to remember that you need to add metal if there is a gap...

Hi CJ, Thanks for your reply. When you introduce filler, are you still on pulse? If so, I suspect the amps are too low so you are having to loiter to get the base and filler to wet together. Thin metal absorbs heat super quickly and then the filler chills the puddle increasing your wait time. On 16g...

Hi Guys, I've been reading the forum on occasion. Life has gotten in the way of welding a little... I know that by me focusing on thinner material, I'm going against the advice of a lot of you for a beginner. I get it. I just don't intend on welding anything thicker than 3/16", and honestly mos...

Hi Everyone,

This welder is sold.

Thanks for looking.

Jeff

Hey Kodokan, Great start! It's great to know you have someone that's so willing to help you. Maybe the filler rod deal was a test? lol I have been focusing on 16 ga, although several of the folks here think I should branch out. lol I guess I'm stubborn as hell, or just a slow learner. I've sure burn...

Hi CJ, The arc should be white. If it is turning blue, that is often an indication of contamination on the tungsten. If the base metal is turning very red around the puddle, you’re overheating it. That’s where some more experience comes in, “reading the puddle”. As soon as you see the puddle going f...

Hi CJ, Something I left out when I rewrote the post... The blowout was actually from when I was tacking the coupons together. That's something I have been working on... getting a little better punching out a quick arc and then letting off to create a nice little tack. When I get out of sync (too muc...

Hi CJ, Well... I thought I posted a reply... just not sure where it went. If it appears, this reply will be kind of redundant. Thanks for the advice. It's a challenge getting the weld hot enough; but, not too hot. For best practice, what would the length of an acceptable shorter bead be? You're sugg...

Hey Everyone,

Hopefully getting closer. 16 Ga butt weld.

Still far from perfect/acceptable...

Thanks,

Jeff

Model: Miller Diversion 180 - for Parts Only ***** Sold ***** YEAR: 2014 Price: $400 plus Shipping Condition: I'd like to say almost like new, with one major exception. It's not working because main control board is blown. The welder was used for approximately 30 hours, all of that time in the last ...

Thanks Gd, Hi Jeff, With your pedal, if set your amps on the machine and then put your foot only 3/4 of the way down it gives you the ability to add amps as/ when needed but also seems to help dropping amps off quickly when needed. If you are not already, try to set up your amps and pedal so that th...

Hi CJ, Once the base metal gets too hot, really only dropping the arc will cure it. Stuffing filler helps cool the puddle, but the base material has saturated beyond the puddle. So to answer you question: chicken or egg? Both. Stuff filler and taper off the pedal. I don’t like to snap off the heat b...

Hey Guys, Hi Guys, Can someone tell me what is causing the defect shown on the attached picture? Is it only because of the high heat (yes, I know it is much too hot), or could this also be due to the tungsten being too close to the puddle? (The line in the center of the of the weld is what I am inte...

Hi CJ, The backside shows plenty of penetration, which is not always required just because it’s a butt weld (this is more common on thin material). But they’re fine. The #2 circle, did you weld over the first pass with more filler, or simply walk the arc (“wash the weld”)? I can’t think of a situati...

Hi Guys, I'm still working to be consistent with a bead on 16 Ga. Two pictures are attached. The first is a front pic of a two 16 Ga 8" long coupons joined with a butt weld. The #1 circle shows one example. The #2 circle shows a second pass. The second pic shows the backside of the same two wel...